The Gulf Hagas Trail

     October 3rd ~ Mark didn't sleep well last night worrying about what today would bring.  We had planned to head into more of the backwoods Maine wilderness traveling on rough logging roads away from phone service, and he was concerned that our plugged tire and our spare would not be sufficient carrying 3,000 lbs of camper.  He didn't want to get stranded in the middle of nowhere.  At first light we got up and went to Stanley's Garage hoping they could fit us in. Since they service the whole area, they were indeed very busy, but within an hour were able to squeeze us in and re-patch our tire from the inside.  They said it was good to go, so we did :)

        We traveled Scenic Hwy 11 from Millinocket down to Prairie and took the Katahdin Iron Works Road to Gulf Hagas.  We slooooooooowly crawled 3 to 10 mph down this rough, rocky, washboard road for about 7 miles.  Several people had warned us of this road's penchant for eating tires and Mark did not want to compromise a tire by going any faster.  It was a pretty ride through the woods though, because the trees had begun to show their colors.  

       When we arrived at the Katahdin Iron Works, we found that the original furnace from the Iron Works that operated here for 25 years in the 1880's is still standing.  

Katahdin Iron Works stone furnace

      To continue driving from this point you must pay $12 per person for access to the privately owned portion of the logging road and pass through a gate that is opened from 7am to 9pm.  The two older women who monitor the gate live in the gatehouse for a week at a time alternating weeks with another couple.  We paid our $24 plus $2 for a trail map and then sloooooooowly proceeded another 7 miles to the Gulf Hagas Trail which also intersects with the Appalachian Trail.  The Gulf Hagas is a Slate gorge carved by the West Branch of the Pleasant River.  There are five major waterfalls and nearly vertical walls (up to 120 feet high).  The eight mile loop trail is rated moderate to difficult.  

One lane bridge

Cabin on private land

     

 

     To access the trail you must wade 150 feet through the COLD waters of the West Branch Pleasant River which can be as high as thigh deep but was lower this year due to the drought (about mid calf at the deepest).  The bottom is completely covered with stones, the larger ones quite slippery, so you must step very, very carefully as you wade across.  We were glad we brought extra shoes so we could get one pair wet wading and wear a dry pair hiking.

 

       The trail has some easier sections, but is mostly rocky and uneven, or covered with tree roots, and very steep at times.  We were mostly hiking/climbing through woods, but periodically took a side trail to an overlook to view waterfalls or canyon walls.  We started our hike at 1:30 and hiked for about five and a half hours.  We ran into a couple people at the very beginning of our hike but after that we were completely alone.  We saw two of the waterfalls and traversed what we were told was the most difficult part of the rim trail, but had to turn back before completing the length of the whole canyon because it was getting too late.  We did our final leg of the trail and waded across the river in the dark.  Even though we had no phone service, Mark had carried his phone.  That turned out to be a HUGE blessing because we used the flashlight on the phone to help avoid stumbling over the rocks or losing the way.  We would have gotten lost in the woods without it.  We slowly drove the 7 miles back to the gate and arrived about 8:30pm.  When we checked in with the gate-keeper ladies they were glad to see us and admitted to being concerned because it was getting late.  They graciously let us park outside the gate for the night so we could drive out in the morning.  Although I was exhausted after our hike, it was a very fun day and I was a little disappointed we didn't have the time (or the energy:) to hike the whole trail.  

Screw Auger Falls

 

     

There is a steep drop off next to the narrow path.

 

Buttermilk Falls

This portion of the path on the way out was called Pleasant River ROAD.

 

A Day's Delay

     We spent October 2nd trying to get our tire checked and trying to find treatment for my poison ivy.  I have been suffering with a blistering rash all over the back of my left leg for about 10 days now.  We have tried Calamine lotion, Tecnu Extreme medicated poison ivy scrub, Tecnu medicated anti-itch spray, cold cloths, and cleansing wipes with only minimal and temporary relief.  The pain and itching has driven me (and consequently Mark, too) a little crazy. Instead of getting better it has continued to get worse.  We couldn't locate any open urgent care nearby and almost resorted to going to the emergency room at the closest hospital, but then I remembered an email I had received about mdlive.com.  After a LOT of technical difficulty due to poor internet access, I was finally able to talk to a real live doctor and get a prescription for prednisone.  Hopefully that will cure me!  He also recommended using hydrocortisone 1% cream.      We are going to spend the night at Kaladhin Shadows Campground in Medway so that Mark can get the tire checked tomorrow since nothing was open today.  

Misadventures in Maine

     On Friday, September 30th, we left Cobscook State Park and went to the town of Eastport.  Mark wanted to see the "Old Sow" he had read about.  The "Old Sow" is a rare and unusual "tidal whirlpool" caused by the extreme tides in this area in addition to being where two bodies of water, the Cobscook Bay and Passamaquoddy Bay turbulently collide. We walked to the end of town where we were told we might be able to see the "Old Sow" from Water Street, but no such luck.  We were later informed that you can usually only see it by boat two hours before high tide.  We also chatted with a friendly Eastport shopkeeper who grew up in East Tawas, Michigan, but has spent the last 30 years in Maine.  

Eastport

       Next we drove the eight mile "Million Dollar View Scenic Byway" from Danforth to Orient on Hwy 1.  Mark's research indicated that these eight miles showcase some of the most beautiful views in Eastern Maine. There were two overlooks along this stretch with nice views, but we think "million dollar" is a bit of an exaggeration:)  

Million Dollar View

       We spent the night with several motor homes at the Houlton Walmart, and on Saturday (October 1st) our much anticipated destination was Baxter State Park.  On the way we found the Walton Settlement Bridge (1911) which is the oldest surviving example of a Howe truss system used in a Maine covered bridge.

Walton Covered Bridge

 

 

        We then stopped near an Amish settlement in Smyrna Mills and bought veggies at the Akin Bak Farmstead road stand and also baked goods at an Amish general store.  

 

Veggie Stand ~ Akin Bak Farmstead

 

       We drove through pretty forested countryside with the leaves starting to show some color.  In Shin Pond we stopped to get gas and saw a dead Bull Moose that was thrown into the back of a pick up truck.  I couldn't bear to take a picture.  It just seemed too sad.

   

Wind turbines in the distance

       Just outside of the north entrance into Baxter State Park we stopped at Mattagamon Wilderness General Store on the Penobscot River and had really good homemade pizza for lunch.  If you're ever in the area, I highly recommend a stop at this interesting place.  It is decorated like a hunting lodge with real (stuffed) animals including four black bears.  

Penobscot River

 

One of our lunch companions

       After eating, we drove the short distance to the entrance of the park, but we were TURNED AWAY because our rig is too tall! They have several requirements to enter the park which are strictly enforced (see sign below).  The ranger was kind enough to go over Mark's map with him, but discouraged his planned route outside the park because it included some primitive logging roads that would likely damage a tire.    

 

The building is the ranger station at Baxter State Park. 

       In response to the park ranger's suggestions, we backtracked to Patten and took the Scenic Byway down Hwy 11 between Patten and Sherman.  We were enjoying some beautiful scenery and had just been told of a great place up ahead that had wonderful views of Katahdin Mountain, when the truck informed us that the left rear tire was losing air pressure.    

 

 

 

 

Looking for closer views of Katahdin Mountain

 

This is where the truck told us there was a tire pressure problem.

     Sure enough, the tire was punctured and we were quickly losing air.  We were able to make it to a paved lot near a gas station to undertake changing the tire (remember we are carrying 3,000 lbs of camper).  After cranking down the four camper jacks to stabilize it, and jacking up the truck, Mark got the lugnuts removed but the tire refused to budge.  He tried with all his strength to get it off, but it was stuck fast.  He finally resorted to kicking it vigorously over and over without success.  Just when he was feeling discouraged and out of options, a good samaritan appeared with a crowbar, laid under the truck, and pried the tire free.  He even plugged the hole in the tire before continuing on his way.  Mark tried to pay him, but he refused.  We made sure to let him know he was an answer to prayer!  By the time Mark put on the spare and finished the job it was getting late, so we drove to Millinocket for the night.  

Our Good Samaritan

 

       If you ever want to hunt moose, bear, or deer in Maine, please go to www.shepardhuntingcompany.com.  Our good samaritan is part of the Shepard Hunting Company.